What’s the difference between a Minx IIIA and IIIB

Trying to sort out whether my car is actually a IIIA or IIIB. The VIN number seems to say A. But somebody suggested a B because of the size of the windshield. Searching for better pictures, I found this great collection at Simon Cars

This is definitely a IIIA.

But that hood ornament doesn’t seem to be stock.

1960 Hillman Minx IIIA

Motor Mounts

It’s important to note that when replacing the Hillman engine with a Series V Alpine engine, the motor mounts, while in the same place, are NOT the same size.

Hillman on the left. Alpine on the right

That’s a bit of a difference!

Another point – after finally getting the right motor mounts from Speedy Spares (once they opened after shutting down for Covid 19) we put them on the Alpine 1725 and went to drop it in place, but it didn’t fit! The Alpine front engine plate looks the same as the one on the Hillman engine, but it is a couple of inches narrower, so the engine came out, engine plates were swapped and then it all fit.

Front Coil Springs

We need new ones in the front for sure. But it’s likely to be part of a front end rebuild.  But where to find the springs? 
Perhaps Stanley Springs on Cameron Street in Harrisburg, PA

I’m pretty sure they shouldn’t look like this

Will update when I know for sure.

UPDATE: Stanley Springs here in Harrisburg, PA makes leaf springs. Not coils. So I’m on a mission.

I finally found that Kip Motors had a set which I ordered.

But I also found that CoilSprings in the UK could provide them. From his email:

The Details I have for your car are a bit different but not massively so I will work with your information. However, I would like a description of the ends of your springs.
Delivery would be about 3 weeks to manufacture.

PETER  PEARCE
Coil Springs (1989) Ltd
94 ATTERCLIFFE  ROAD
Sheffield S4 7WW
Tel:- 0114 275 8573
E:- coilsprings.sheffield@gmail.com

CoilSprings.com (in St. Mary’s, KS) also said they could MAKE the springs but they requested additional information.

Please review the following data and advise:
O.D.   I.D.   Wire Dia. Checking Load @ Checking Load Height    Rate     F.L.  T.C.4.46″   ??        ???              1000#              @          7.75″              ???   11.03″

Here are are the measurements we took of our set

O.D.~4 1/2″
I.D.~3 5/16″
Wire diameter0.56″ +/-
Coil height11 1/2″

Heater Blower Fan Housing Repair

Cracks and holes can be fixed!

We found a blower motor for the heater. But it was pretty cracked up and had two sizable holes about 3/4″ x 1/2″.   (Sorry I didn’t take a before picture!)

blower housing interior patch

So first up was to repair the casing.  We used some thin fabric, sheeting or particularly light weight shirting. Glued it on the inside coating the whole patch with Duco cement.

Not only did that add support to the cracked parts, but it also served as a base for the patch over top.

For that we used Sugru. This is pretty cool stuff.. but on the expensive side.   It  feels a little like silly putty. But you smear it in the void and the crack and it bonds really well.   According to the instructions for Sugru, you have to get the stuff started on the exisisting edges by really working it into the rough parts.  But after that it sticks to itself really well. We also found a homemade recipe here.

Here’s a picture of the repaired holes and crack. (View the larger size to really see the work.)

Cracks  and holes repaired with Sugru

Next up hoses and connections

We found the hoses at Victoria British.  But they came with Moss Motors labels and part numbers.

But the elbow proved more difficult to find as a Hillman part.

However, we did find 90 degree silicone elbow coupler from Amazon  to connect between the heater blower and the radiator panel.

Some people said they needed a 3″ connector. Our Hillman used a 4″ one. The elbow fits right over the flange on the blower and inside the round duct through the radiator panel. It needs to be trimmed a bit since without trimming it pushes the blower up too high. We trimmed a little more than an inch off of the vertical leg of the elbow. We noticed too late that the cut should have been made on an angle since the blower opening is not directly in line above the radiator panel opening, at least on our Minx, but it is in and so far seems serviceable.

YMMV.

Tires and Wheels

Tires

The tires on this car were date coded 1997.  Don’t drive on old tires.  Sometimes they blow out for hardly any reason.

The tires are 185 80 R15.   Those are the tires ON the car. 

The spare however was smaller… huh?  Yep. 

165 60?? R15. I didn’t think to write that down before we had them replaced.

Why? It seems that full size wheel and tire won’t fit in the appropriate spot in the trunk!

Didn’t know that til after we replace all 5 tires!  Nuts.

By the way, this is a big shout out to PepBoys  for the tires and for all kinds of assorted parts that the parts guys knew about.

Wheels and Brakes

Brakes on the front of this car are 10″ and 9″ on back. Most of the manuals say there are only 8″ and 9″ choices.  But these are original and 10″.

They are almost the same as 1958 MGA brakes, but about 1/2″ narrower. And that means less surface area to help with stopping.

The rear brakes have a number 10017 (Most likely that’s a Rootes part number)

Update:
According to Mike Langley: If they are 10″, then in theory they are from a series 2 Rapier. Pretty rare…. see if the US Classic Car Suppliers list them. If not get back to me

Stopping is important!