On later (Series IIIA 1960) Hillman you can use a 1987-1992 Range Rover slave clinder. On all Series Minxes you can use an MGB 1965-1980 clutch master cylinder. Instead of the long, long looped line, I used a “banjo” fitting (from an MGB) and short metal line and then a piece of flexible brake line (with a suitable adapter bolted to the front frame rail) along with a copper washer at the slave cylinder. This is a BMC style solution (used on MG, Austin, Morris etc.). It has worked for several years now on my Minx.
The certificate details the car as it left the assemply line. (And has nothing to do with the condition of the car at this time!) The details below are compiled from an entry in the original factory records for the vehicle with the chassis number specified.
78,052 Minx Series IIIA built at Ryton-on-Dunsmore
Specification:
Body: 2-door convertible recorded as coupe´, left hand drive for export, North American specification. Transmission: 4-speed manual; Original options: none
Identification Nos:
Car-chassis: B.1028840 H LCX; Engine: B.1028840, 1494cc 4-cylinder ohv high compression
Colour:
Exterior: Powder Blue over Moonstone (codes 25, 19); Interior trim: Powder Blue; Hood (soft top): Powder Blue or Black
Approx. Dates:
Manufacture: not recorded Sales: 5/1/1960 Dispatch: not recorded
Destination (Dealer):
Rootes London Ltd. for export to USA
Registration Mark:
Not registered in UK
First Owner:
Not recorded
Other Information:
Invoice no. 53190 Parts List 6600783; Hand-book 6600789 + 6600680; WSM 6601045 + 6600843.
Cost:
Base price: £509 pounds base price (about $600 US based on current exchange rate) PLUS £213-4/2 tax That’s 213 pounds 4 shillings and 2d in old money! (Yep, almost 50% of total)
I gathered this information from a recent thread on the HillmanCars group
[Someone was looking for] … Clutch master and slave cylinders for my 1966 Sunbeam Minx. This car is the same as a 1964 Hillman Minx V. My manual shows the parts numbers as 1223548 for the Master Cylinder and 1223557 for the Slave Cylinder. Any suggestions for parts outlet or a reasonable substitute?
Suggestions are from old notes Richard “Budd” Bennion collected
Take a look at a clutch master cylinder for a Triumph 2000, MGB 1965-1970 (but must swap the operating rod from the Hillman as the MGB rod is too short) or Saab 99-900. Also maybe check Range Rover 1988-90 as it can work on a Series I Hillman but it is the self adjusting type instead of the manual adjust.
Jan Eyerman replied:
I have a clutch master cylinder for a 1965 MGB in my 1962 Minx Series IIIC and it has worked fine for several years. I did indeed have to swap the operating rod from my old master cylinder as the MGB one is indeed too short. One other thing I did was to use a banjo fitting on the end of the master cylinder to make installing the fluid line easier.
Suspension from the Series V Alpine installed using the new springs for the Hillman. (This car is heavier, stouter springs are warranted!) Still a bit of an issue with the motor mounts.. but it’s progress.
From Worthpoint.com (This mentionis the speedometer problem and the oil leak. We shoulda paid more attention to that tiny detail!)
From Picclick.com (in East Bridgewater, MA) for $5,549.00 Seller:bobbydmotorsinc (CALL with Any Questions – Bob @ (508)378-8145)
The pictures posted there (on ebay) were the same pictures posted from the seller in Florida
We bought the car just a few months later for $12,500! from Dealer: David Ross – dross1958@comcast.net in Naples, FL
1960 Hillman Minx
Year: 1960
Trim (Turbo, Series 1, etc.): Hillman Minx Convertible
Condition: Used
Mileage: 60000 miles
Transmission: Manual
Drive train:2WD
Body Style:Convertible
Exterior Color:purple/white
Interior Color:ivoryD
Doors:2
Seating Capacity:4
1960 HILLMAN MINX CONVERTIBLE
* 4 Cyl – 4 Speed * Nice Solid Car – Excellent Floors & Trunk * Body in Nice Shape – No Rust * Nice Paint * Big Trunk *Older restoration that still shows well * Great Interior – New Top & Back Window within past couple of years * Tires, Brake s& Exhaust Good * Steers Easy * Runs & Drives Excellent -No Smoke & Engine Quiet- Will Easily Keep Up with Traffic * Odometer Currently Reads-57,945 but will increase slightly each time we drive it * Florida car * Featured In August 2013 Hemmings Book * Great Investment * Could Drive It Everyday or Enjoy Cruise Nights-Extremely Comfortable. If you want to do car shows, you may want to improve it based on your taste. As this is a 58 year old used car, it is sold as is / where is, with no warranties. Clear Florida title in my name. Email for more photos or information
After nearly three years and just about everything done once was done again, the Hillman made its way out of the garage under its own steam! Unfortunately, the windshield wipers were stuck in the ON position. Then after dropping one of the brushes not once, twice, or three times.. on the fourth it was lost! New set purchased.. and we wait again.
We call the car Eileen, because she does.. slightly lower on the driver’s side.. no matter the new springs (front and back), new shocks (also front and back) and various shims.
However, it now sports a 1725 Alpine Series V engine with overdrive transmission, a fancy new custom exhaust system, and battery in the boot to name just a few upgrades.
Joe thought the rear springs didn’t seem right. And when I looked, the driver’s side seemed to ride about 4″ lower than the passenger. I can’t have that. I know what I think about the driver of a car when it rides like that! That must be fixed.
Joe thought the rear springs didn’t seem right. And when I looked, the driver’s side seemed to ride about 4″ lower than the passenger.
I can’t have that. I know what I think about the driver of a car when it rides like that! That must be fixed.
Turns out the biggest leaf spring company in the US is in Harrisburg, PA..
My new best friend Matt took the old springs and re set them.
However, he also said they were within tolerance of the original configuration.
Nevertheless, with new bushings, buttons, and the rubber things (#12 and #14 in the drawing) from Speedy Spares, they are back in the car.
4 each #3, front & rear bushings. I think it is part # 9199018 from Speedy Spares £16 each (not cheap!) RootesParts.com (Netherlands) has a bush #9188018 for €9.50. The parts manual online (http://rootes.dyndns.org/HLP_S1-3a/HLP_S1-3a112b.jpg) shows the part as 9199018, so the one from Speedy Spares looks right. 2 each #12, and # 14, upper and lower clamp plate bushes. I couldn’t find these. Part numbers are P.79686 (top) and P.79688. 12 each #10, polythene thrust buttons. Couldn’t find these either, but they may be something the spring shop has. Part number is P.84770
We started installation with the passenger side. MAN was that hard. Ultimately it required another jack and levers.
However, the driver’s side went in like a breeze. Turns out the rear shackle (#28 on the drawing) on the passenger side was pretty much seized. But even with penetrating oil and time to set, it doesn’t seem to be much better.
We probably should have replaced the upper bushings on the shackles too, but after putting it together that can wait until the next time.
Unfortunately, that didn’t really fix the driver’s side sag.
After settling for a week or so, the rear of the car is close to level, but the front is still off. Fronts shocks maybe?
Next? Rear Shocks
Turns out they aren’t so hard to find: Monroe part #31069
They went in pretty easily after putting some weight on the springs.
One thing to note though is that the smaller shock bushings go on the top. The manual says they’re the same, but the ones that came with the shocks are not.
And now after settling down a bit, the back end is pretty close to level.
*This is the RIGHT Stanley Springs info: Dayton Parts, LLC Harrisburg, Pennsylvania 1300 Cameron Street Harrisburg, Pa 17103
